Longines Saint-Imier Chronograph Uhr ansehen

Im vergangenen Mai lud uns Longines ein, am 139. Lauf des Kentucky Derby in Churchill Downs in Louisville teilzunehmen. In typischer Derby-Mode waren es alle schicke Hüte, Minze Juleps, schöne Pferde und schnelle Frauen. Es war ein episches Wochenende, und wir sind gerade so ernüchternd genug, um Ihnen davon zu erzählen. Ernsthaft, haben Sie schon einmal eine Minze Julep? Zum Frühstück? Sie wissen, wie es richtig in Kentucky zu tun.

Longines hat eine lange Geschichte der Reiterverbindung, und ihre Uhren sind seit den späten 1800er Jahren (!!) für Timing-Rennveranstaltungen verwendet worden. Diese Verbindung ist lebendig und gut heute, und neben der Bereitstellung von Sponsoring und offizielle Zeitmessung für die Triple Crown, Longines liefert auch Chronographen als Preise an die Gewinner der Rennserie. Diese Stücke kommen von ihrer Saint-Imier Sammlung, und schließen eine rosafarbene Goldversion für Inhaber und eine Stahlversion für Jockeys ein. Das Stück, das wir für diese Überprüfung ausgewählt haben, ist die Stahljockey-Version.
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Hublot uhren - big bang 44mm evolution rot gold und keramik replik watch ref. 301.PM.1780.RX

Die hublot Uhren - Urknall 44mm Evolution Rotgold und Keramik Replik-Uhr ist ein schön realisiert, 44 m nehmen auf das Original, die Kombination von wertvollen und technischen Materialien zu verheerende Wirkung. Das Gehäuse ist in satiniertem 18K Rotgold, und der Kristall ist Saphirglas mit einem Antireflex-Prozess behandelt. Das Zifferblatt ist keramisch und zeigt drei Chronographenanzeigen in Zifferblättern bei 3, 6 und 9 Uhr: dies sind Minuten, Stunden und verstrichene Zeit. Die Sekunden werden vom zentralen Sekundenzeiger verfolgt. Es gibt auch ein Datumsfenster zwischen 4 und 5 Uhr.
Der Hublot Big Bang braucht keine Einleitung. Wie die universelle Veranstaltung, aus der es seinen inspirierten Namen nimmt, ist diese Luxusuhr ein unausweichlicher Effektor, eine Explosion der Sterngröße, die alles verändert hat, was danach kam.
Die Hublot Big Bang 44mm Evolution Rotgold und Keramik Replik-Uhr wurde auf der Baselworld im Jahr 2005 enthüllt und hat seitdem auf eine große Familie von spektakulären Uhren zu schaffen. Ob es sich um ein skelettiertes Unico-Modell mit einer 72-Stunden-Gangreserve, ein Tourbillon mit einer fünftägigen Gangreserve oder ein Klassiker wie die Evolutions-Goldkeramik handelt, der Big Bang ist unverkennbar sportlich und komplett Hublot. So ist auch der Urknall mit dem Erfolg von Hublot, dass praktisch alle Uhren der Marke die sichtbare DNA ihres Designs tragen.
Die Hublot Big Bang Evolution Gold Keramik 301.PM.1780.RX hat eine schwarze Keramik-Lünette, verschraubt mit Hublot-Marke sichtbar Schrauben. Das genaue Material für die Lünette (wie auch für andere wichtige Teile der Bewegung) ist nach Hublot aus Zirkonoxidkeramik, einem hervorragend starken und kratzfesten Metall, das durch Brennen von Zirkoniumoxidpulver in extremer Hitze und immensem Druck erhalten wird .
Wenn es eine Sache gibt, ist der Big Bang, es ist cool. Es ist auf den schnellsten, am meisten awesome und mächtigsten Handgelenke auf dem Planeten gesehen worden: Jay-Z, Lionel Richie, Usain Bolt (ein Hublot-Markenbotschafter), Ed Sheeran, Pelé (ein anderer Hublot-Botschafter) - auch Martin Gore von Depeche Mode , Die Hublots Urknall-Depeche-Modus-Titanmodell zu Ehren des Uhrens der Uhr trug.
Was ist in einem Namen? Als die hublot big bang evolution replica im Jahr 2005 debütierte, war die Verwendung von Keramik in externen Komponenten fast unerhört. Jetzt ist es überall: und dafür haben wir das Flaggschiff von Hublot, zumindest zum Teil, dafür zu danken. Die Big Bang Evolution Gold Keramik ist eine stolze Verfeinerung des Originals, und ihr eigener Name - Evolution - lässt Sie wissen, dass so stolz wie die ursprüngliche Big Bang seine Absicht, das Universum der Luxus-Uhrmacherei wieder aufzunehmen.
Das Modell kombiniert höchst wünschenswerte und anspruchsvolle Elemente mit dem technischen Aussehen, dem Gefühl und der Kraft von Keramik und Kohlenstoff. Dieses Modell ist der neueste Wegpunkt in einer fortlaufenden Reise von Big Bang zu Evolution.
Innerhalb der hublot big bang Replik ist die selbstaufziehende Chrono-Bewegung HUB4100. Diese Hublot Kaliber verfügt über eine Gangreserve von 42 Stunden, 27 Juwelen und Vibrationen bei 28.800 vph. Der Betrieb der Chronographenfunktion erfolgt über zwei Drucktasten, die sich auf beiden Seiten der dreistelligen Einschraubkrone befinden. Der obere Schieber beginnt und stoppt den Chrono (einfach wieder ohne Einstellung, um aufeinanderfolgende und kumulative Zeiten zu erhalten), und der untere Schieber setzt sie zurück. mehr sehen gef?lschte uhren und Rolex Milgauss

Zelos Helmsman Stainless Steel

Back in March, I told you about the Zelos Helmsman, a new Kickstarter project for a dual crown watch by Elshan Tang. I liked the layering in the dial, the multiple finishes on the case, the Miyota 9015 automatic movement, and the outstanding pre-order pricing that started at about $340. It thought it showed a great deal of promise and was eager to get my hands on one. Apparently, I was not alone. Zelos raised almost $82,000 in the funding campaign, shattering the $30,000 goal. Watches are now being shipped, and Elshan was good enough to provide The Time Bum with a stainless case, grey dial Helmsman for review. 

The watch arrived in a dark wooden box with the Zelos logo on the lid. It is nice enough and protects the watch in transit, but it is not where the packaging and presentation money went. That part becomes apparent after you open the box. Inside is a sturdy, oil tanned leather watch roll. I have no use for display boxes, but the watch roll would be a welcome addition. It has four pouches for watches or straps and one for a tool. The roll is rather cleverly secured with a 22mm strap and Pre-V style stainless steel buckle. The leather looks and smells great, but that it picks up creases, marks, and scratches very easily. This is simply the character of the leather, not a flaw, but something to bear in mind. It is not supposed to look new forever, and that patina is going to develop very quickly. 

The roll contains an engraved warranty card, the watch, a black NATO, and a strap changing tool. I have amassed a small collection of "free with purchase" strap tools, and generally found them useless: weak heads, forks too thick to slip between the strap and the lug, flimsy plastic barrels, etc. This one is the exception. It is all stainless steel with a knurled barrel and replaceable screw-in heads. In fact, it is identical to the tool I purchased for myself a couple of years ago. 

This is a sizable watch. The brushed stainless steel case measures 43mm wide, 50mm tall, and 14mm thick with slim, tapered lugs. Thick watches run the risk of appearing bulky and slab-sided, so I like it when a designer takes steps to minimize the girth. This can be done in many ways such as adding a contour or character lines, beveling or radiusing the edges, or smoothing the sides with a complex curve. Elshan took an approach I have not seen before and cut deep recesses with filleted corners into the length of the case sides, then set them off by sandblasting the interior surface. It is unique and attractive, breaking up the sides and quite literally adding depth. The bezel is beveled and polished on the outer edge and innermost surface. The beveled edge is brushed. The multiple finishes and contours certainly work, at least to The Bum's eye, drawing attention, but also breaking up the mass, allowing the watch to wear slightly smaller. The dual crowns are large and aggressively grooved. Both screw down and the lower crown is signed. They are easy to grip and operate with a positive, mechanical feel. 

The outer bezel is unmarked and despite the shallow notches that surround it, it does not turn. That job is reserved for the inner bezel with its 60 increment index. It is angled towards the dial and adjusted by the upper crown. It moves easily, but I did notice that resistance increases in certain places as it makes its way around the dial. The hefty case, dive bezel, and dual crown design suggest a dive watch, but the Helmsman is only rated for 100m water resistance. I would call it a sport watch, and certainly water friendly, but you should not use it for scuba or other serious marine activity. Best to keep it at the helm. 

A sapphire crystal tops it all off and out back you will find an engraved display case back that showcases the Miyota 9015 movement. Zelos has taken an extra step here by decorating the rotor with rose gold PVD coating and an engraved logo. This 24 jewel, 28.8k BPH movement is smooth, reliable, highly accurate, and affordable, making it an appealing alternative to the pricy ETA 2824. It makes its presence known on your wrist as you can both hear and feel the rotor swing as you move. 

The Helmsman is available in several variants, including black, brown, green, and blue dials, and bronze and bronze with DLC black bezels, in addition to the stainless/grey combination here. It is easy to overlook the relatively monochromatic combination here, but that would do it a disservice. The grey dial does not shout for attention, but it commands it. Multiple layers are a play on the face starting with the aforementioned internal bezel, then the applied dart markers and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock. From this level, the dial steps down to a second layer at the center that is textured with horizontal bars that wrap around the 3 o'clock date window. The Zelos logo occupied the top the dial, the word "automatic" at the bottom. Brushed and semi-skeletonized sword hands add yet another dimension as the dial peeks through the channels that run their length. Depending on the light, color changes and details emerge and recede. It is a rich effect, and highly attractive. It makes me wonder how it might look if the silver toned color was continued with a stainless steel bracelet. The darts, hands, and bezel index are all treated with C3 SuperLuminova for excellent nighttime readability.

As it stands, the Helmsman is only offered with straps, but they are in no way lacking. First is the black nylon NATO, which is perfectly fine, and a staple of every watch nerd's wardrobe, but nothing to write about. I found it to be a shade too thin for the watch, making it appear slightly top heavy. The second is a thick, oil tanned, matte finish brown that matches the watch roll. This is a beautiful strap, well made and properly proportioned for the watch. Much to my delight, it fit my smallish 6.5" wrists easily with more room left for adjustment. It is secured with an engraved stainless buckle that is just as intriguing as the watch case. It has a square frame with a pronounced "S" curve in profile and cut outs through the sides that recall the recesses in in the case. It is a perfect accompaniment for this rugged yet stylized watch. 

A third, dressier black leather strap will also be included, but it was not ready at the time of shipping.  I expect the watch would look quite nice on a more polished strap, but the size of the watch precludes its use with a suit. I could, however, envision it with a coat and tie in a less formal setting, and on a larger wrist than my own.

Overall fit and finish is very high, but there are one or two flaws that betray its freshman status. I noticed some splatter of lume around one of the bezel numbers, but this was only visible with a loupe and if a flaw is not visible to the naked eye, I do not consider it to be an issue. I also questioned alignment of the logo under the 12. It appears to be ever so slightly off to the left. I examined this until I was dizzy, then checked photos of the dial on line, and determined that it is not a misalignment at all but an illusion. This is most likely because my brain is attempting to line up the logo with the narrow stem of the 1 and broad base of the 2, and not registering the large serif at the top of the 1, which also comprises the total width of the 12. It can drive you crazy if you dwell on it, so my advice is not to dwell on it. 

A stainless steel case Helmsman now sells for $420. That would be a fair price for the watch, but it is exceptional when you consider the extras. The watch roll alone would likely cost about $100. The Helmsman is an ambitious design with myriad elements competing for your attention. I knew it was complex from the prototype photos, but I did not truly appreciate it until I could hold one in my hand. In the hands of a less competent designer, this watch could have been a hot mess. Instead the design is brilliantly executed. It is clearly the work of a talented individual who loves watches. I really like the Helmsman and I look forward to Elshan's next project.

Pro: Complex and satisfying design.

Con: Minor quality control issues.

Sum: A brilliant start for Zelos. The Time Bum approves.

GIVEAWAY: Want to win a Zelos Helmsman of your very own? How about the very one reviewed right here by the beloved Bum? Then check out the giveaway post here, and enter before 11:59 pm US Eastern Standard Time on July 31, 2014.  Good Luck!

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Taniwha Ururoa Prototype

A couple of weeks ago, the Taniwha Ururoa made its debut on Kickstarter, but a high funding goal and no advance publicity hindered the effort. It's creator pulled the plug to regroup for another try later this year. I had noticed the watch when it briefly flickered on the crowd funding scene, so I was delighted when he sent me a prototype for review. 

In Maori, Taniwha are supernatural undersea dragons and Ururoa is the word for Great White Shark. With a name like that, it should come as no surprise that this is a diver's watch, and this is borne out by its specs: 200 meters water resistance, screw down crown and case back, unidirectional timing bezel, and a sapphire crystal. The brushed stainless steel case is 42mm across. A relatively small dial makes it appear slightly smaller, but the thick bezel and aggressive crown guards ensure substantial wrist presence. It was an easy fit on my 6.5" wrist, tucking neatly under a shirt cuff. 

Let's talk about those crown guards. They flow from the lugs, twisting inward bombe style, tapering to menacing points at the bottom of the fat, coin-edged crown. A beveled edge runs along the upper part, enhancing the dramatic effect. I can't recall seeing bombe crown guards before and I really have to wonder why they aren't more common. They offer easy access to the crown while still providing more than adequate protection and best of all, they are freaking awesome. Taniwha and Ururoa are toothy creatures, so it is perfectly appropriate that a watch bearing their names should have fangs. The guards look positively lethal, but I assure you they are quite safe, menacing neither the wearer nor his surroundings. My only criticism is that this element has not been carried far enough. As it stands, the guards are an outrageous embellishment on an otherwise staid case. Continuing the theme with an inward curve on the lugs would tie it in better and take the watch to the next level.

Three bezel options are offered: solid steel, PVD black, and steel with a black aluminum insert. I had the black bezel option. I loved the deep, military style index and knurled edge. It moved easily with only a little play but lacked the firm, mechanical click I find so satisfying. The case back is decorated with its namesake Ururoa Great White. A 24 jewel Miyota 9015 automatic beats inside. This micro brand favorite hacks, hand winds, and vibrates at 28.8k bph for a smooth second hand sweep. 

Unlike the case, the dial is conservative. It has a sun ray effect in black or blue, polished markers, and plongeur hands. White luminous material on the hands, markers, and bezel pip provides a bright green glow at night. A Maori design called "Jaws of the Taniwha" serves as a logo, appearing on the dial and crown. The text is a bit too casual for my taste. It is not unattractive, but strikes a kind of slouchy, beach bum chord that may not resonate with everyone. The black-on-white daye wheel is neatly integrated at 4:30, nestled between the similarly sized markers.

The Ururoa arrives on a 22mm black leather strap with white stitching. It was well made, quite comfortable, and I love the look of a diver on leather, but I think a tool watch needs a waterproof strap. Of course, this is a cheap and easy fix for the buyer, but shipping it with something as simple as a nylon NATO would help underscore its functional nature.

I liked the Ururoa. There are some things I might have done differently, but overall I found it to a very appealing watch. It had all the right specs, a quality movement, and the coolest crown guards I've seen in ages. The initial campaign started at $320 NZD, or $200 USD. This is an excellent price, particularly considering the 9015 movement. I hope to see it back up Kickstarter again soon.

Pro: Outrageous crown guards, nice price.

Con: Guards outshine the rest of the case. Not currently available. 

Sum: The Time Bum thinks you should keep an eye out for it. 

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